Endicott Rock is a monument to the first visit of white
men of which there is any knowledge. The lettering upon
the Rock was done to perpetuate the record of an official
delegation sent by the Massachusetts Bay Colony to ascertain
the northernmost boundary of its territory, in the summer
of 1652, only thirty-two years after the Pilgrims landed
on Plymouth Rock. The exact date, as specified in the report,
included in the old colony records, was August 1, 1652,
which deserves to be made Endicott Memorial Day and regularly
observed.
Having reached what was considered the head of the Merrimack
River, three miles north of which was to be established
the northwest boundary point of the territory embraced in
the Massachusetts Colony territorial tract, as specified
in their charter from the king of England, they evidently
deemed it unnecessary to attempt to go any further, as the
stated distance, three miles further on, would but establish
the point sought in the water or very near the northern
shore of the lake, and the arm of the lake extending northerly,
a little west of north, might have been deemed an inconvenient
or impassable barrier, as it could not. have been known
how far it extended.
Selecting this conveniently-located, large, round-topped
boulder, at the mouth of the river channel, they chiseled
upon its face the name of Governor Endicott, of the Bay
Colony, and their own initials, and probably the date, which
in some manner has been effaced. Captain Symon Willard and
Captain Edward Johnson were the leaders in this party of
explorers. They were assisted by John Sherman, Jonathan
Ince and other white men and several dependable Indians.
The complete report is available among the Massachusetts
state records. The latitude of the place was stated to be
43 degrees, 40 miuutes, 12 seconds, “besides three
miles more north wich runneth into the lake.” The
party did not remain long.
After this important event many years rolled by before other
white men came. “The ancient solitude reigned again
about the lake,” except for aboriginal disturbances.
Old Endicott Rock was entirely forgotten for 181 years after
the inscriptions were engraved upon it. Finally, in 1833,
it was rediscovered, after which some efforts were made
to preserve it. But not until 1892 did the State of New
Hampshire complete present protective measures, including
the memorial structure of granite enclosing it, which was
dedicated in the fall of that year.
The old log blockhouse, or fort, erected as a barrier against
the Indians, by the first surveyors of land for the old
town of Gilmantown, the northwest corner of which was specified
to be here, was located on the point of land directly opposite
Endicott Rock, on the east side of the river channel, in
1736, and the first log structures for dwelling purposes
stood slightly to the southward, near the shore of the river
channel.
“As we look back more than 250 years it seems a long
time, but how insignificant when compared with the measureless
years of solitude through which this grey old sentinel silently
guarded the outlet of the lake, and the more distant aeons
of time when Winnipesaukee turned its waters into the sea
by another channel, and there was no `head of the Merrimack’
here; or with the glacial wanderings of this voiceless stone
from its cradle bed in the infinite past, when there was
no `Beautiful Water of the Highlands,’ and the `Smile
of the Great Spirit’ had not rested among the hills.
“Wonderful, indeed, has been the unrecorded history
of this now exalted wanderer. More wonderful, yet, are the
vicissitudes which await it. It beheld nature’s tumultous
uproar previous to and during the breaking up of the great
ice-cap and the withdrawal of its waters, and beheld other
awful conditions prior to the appearance of man.
Races had vanished and been buried in eternal oblivion before
this primeval stone found a resting-place here. So shall
our race perish and be forgotten, in the infinite years;
and as our lifeless planet shall swing into the wild and
stormy hereafter, relentless Time, scorning our efforts
to perpetuate the work of human hands, with titanic blows
shall beat Endicott Rock into impalpable dust.”
The foregoing quoted passages are from the dedicatory address
of Endicott Memorial, written and delivered by Hon. E. P.
Jewell of Laconia, an eloquent and perfectly reliable authority,
who spent considerable time obtaining data for the article,
going more into detail during the address as follows:
“Several of the principal nobility of England
obtained from King James all the land in America between
the degrees of 40 and 48 north latitude, by the name of
New England. John Mason obtained from this corporation
several grants, bearing date March 9, 1621; August 10,
1622; November 7, 1629, and April 22, 1633. He -vas instated
in fee in a vast tract of land known as New Hampshire.
November 27, 1629, Mason and Fernando Gorges procured
a grant of territory by the name of Laconia. Mason transported
settlers, built houses, forts and magazines, and furnished
arms, including artillery and all necessary materials
for establishing a plantation, at very great expense.
“In 1628 the Governor and Company of the Massachusetts
Bay of New England secured from the Council of New England
a grant of lands therein described. A royal charter was
obtained, March 4, 1629. The boundaries and descriptions
of all these grants were imperfect and strangely confused.
The interior had never been explored, and difficulties
of the most perplexing nature arose as soon as settlements
were undertaken upon territory which seemed to be included
in both grants, to Mason and to the Bay Company. A section
of the Massachusetts charter, referring to the northern
boundary, was as follows: `and also all and singular lands
and hereditaments whatsoever which lie and be within the
space of three English miles to the northward of said
river, called Monomack, alias Merrimack, or to the northward
of any and every part thereof.’ “Mason’s
New Hampshire grant of November 7, 1629, embraced all
that part of the main land in New England lying upon the
sea coast, beginning from the middle part of the Merrimack
river, and from thence northward along the sea-. coast
to the Piscataqua river, and so forwards up within the
said river, and to the furthest head thereof, and from
thence northwestward until three-score miles be finished
from the first entrance of Piscataqua river; also from
the Merrimack through the said river and to the furthest
head thereof, and so forwards up into the lands westward
until three score miles be finished,’ etc.
“In 1652 the Massachusetts Colony resolved upon
an exploring expedition, to determine and to fix the northern
boundaries of their patents. Prior to this time conflicting
views upon the construction of the peculiar description
in their charter had been entertained, and now, upon a
careful perusal of the-instrument, it was determined that
a point three miles northward of the head of the Merrimack
river was the northern limit of their territory, and this
notable expedition was organized to go up the river, to
find the head thereof, and to establish the bounds. At
this time probably no white man had ever approached the
lake nearer than a point three miles north of the `forks’
of the river at Franklin.
“A previous expedition had explored the river as
far as Franklin fills and made a partial survey. This
committee placed the northern boundary line at a great
pine tree, three miles north of the union of the Winnipesaukee
and Pemigewasset rivers, then rightfully considered the
head of the Merrimack, as has since been established.
This first survey was doubtless made in the summer or
early autumn of 1638. The pine tree was marked to indicate
the extreme limit of the possessions under the colonial
charter, and was known for many years as ‘Endicott
‘s tree.’ It is formally alluded to in the
claim presented by Massachusetts to the celebrated Salisbury
court, August 8, 1737, as `a certain tree commonly known
for more than 7 0 years past by the name of Endicott’s
tree, standing three miles northward of the parting of
the Merrimack river,’ etc.
“The construction put upon the charter in the spring
of 1652 made an authoritative exploration a necessity.
Difficulties and complications had arisen, involving other
charters and individual rights. The conflict was serious
and the difficulties great. The men who came up the Merrimack
244 years ago did not penetrate the wilderness as adventurers.
They were representatives of the Massachusett Colony and
came to determine boundaries and to take possession. The
order of the court, May 3, 1652, was as follows: For the
better discovery of the north line of our patent it is
ordered by this court. that Captain Symon Willard and
Captain Edward Johnson be appointed as commissioners to
procure such artists and other assistance as they shall
judge meet. to go with them, to find out the most northerly
part of Merrimack river, and that they be supplied with
all manner of necessaries by the treasurer, fit for the
journey, and they use their utmost skill and ability to
make a true observation of the latitude of that place,
and that they do it with all convenient speed and make
return thereof to the next session of this court.’"
Endicott Rock is located
in Endicott Park, accessed from Weirs Beach in Weirs, NH.
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